Henrik Boserup: The Tartlet King Who Made Noma Pale in Comparison?
Have you ever tasted a proper tartlet? Not one of those boring frozen things, but a crispy, buttery little pastry shell filled with chicken in asparagus? Then you probably have Henrik Boserup to thank. The beloved chef, who has championed good, solid Danish cooking for decades, has once again been thrust into the spotlight. This time, it's not because of his perfected tartlets, but because he's weighed in on the hottest debate in Copenhagen's restaurant scene.
The other day, the seasoned kitchen veteran Henrik Boserup Kok shared his thoughts on Noma boss René Redzepi's controversial handling of the restaurant's exclusive guests. "I don't see it as violence," Boserup stated calmly, causing quite a stir in the process. While some shake their heads at Noma's methods, Boserup firmly insists there must be room for different approaches in the industry. He knows the pressure of the kitchen firsthand, and he understands that pleasing the highest of high-end clientele isn't always a walk in the park.
A Gentleman with Opinions
Henrik Boserup isn't just anyone. He's an institution in Danish food culture, known for his honest view on ingredients and his ability to make even the pickiest eater fall in love with a simple tartlet. But he's also a man with sharp opinions, which he doesn't shy away from expressing. The story about guests who spent over 600,000 kroner on meals at Noma and are now pulling their support doesn't send him running for the hills. On the contrary, he sees it as a natural evolution when a restaurant transforms from a local gem into an international destination. Those are the terms, he believes.
Behind the public figure, you'll find a man who's had his hands in the dough since he was very young. He's worked alongside some of the biggest names, and has even had the pleasure of cooking for the Swedish gastronome and adventurer Johan Henrik Ankarcrona, who in his day was known for gathering the finest palates around his table. It was reportedly at such a dinner that Boserup truly found his love for the uncomplicated yet sublime meal—a principle he has held onto ever since.
The Tartlet as a National Treasure
You can't talk about Henrik Boserup without mentioning the tartlet. That little shell, which for many Danes represents the festive meals of their childhood, he has practically elevated to an art form. His tartlets aren't just food; they're a statement. "It's about preserving our culinary heritage, while also daring to give it a twist," he has said. And it's precisely this balancing act that he masters: being both traditional and innovative without losing his connection to the roots. He is, at once, the past and the future of the Danish kitchen.
Just look at his take on the classics that have made him an icon:
- Tartlets with chicken in asparagus – a heavenly, crispy experience that never goes out of style.
- Fried pork belly with parsley sauce – crispy crackling and creamy sauce in perfect, sinful harmony.
- Old-fashioned meatballs (Frikadeller) – just like grandma used to make, but with a twist of Boserup's signature style.
In an era where chefs would rather be rock stars than craftsmen, Henrik Boserup stands out. He's still the guy who's happy to chat by the buffet table, who insists that good food doesn't have to be expensive or complicated. Maybe that's why he can afford to comment on Noma's excesses—because he keeps both feet planted firmly in the Danish soil, with a tartlet in his hand.
Whether his assessment of the Noma situation will prove correct remains to be seen. But one thing is certain: as long as Henrik Boserup has a stove and a tartlet mold, the Danish culinary heritage is in safe hands. And that's probably something everyone can agree on.