Henrik Boserup: The Tartelet King Who Made Noma Pale in Comparison?
Have you ever tasted a proper tartelet? Not the sad, frozen kind, but a crisp, buttery little shell filled with chicken in asparagus sauce? If you have, you probably have Henrik Boserup to thank. This beloved chef, who has championed honest, hearty Danish cooking for decades, has once again found himself in the spotlight. This time, it's not for his perfected tartelet recipes, but because he has weighed in on the hottest debate in Copenhagen's restaurant scene.
Recently, the seasoned kitchen veteran Henrik Boserup Kok shared his thoughts on Noma boss René Redzepi's much-discussed handling of the restaurant's exclusive guests. "I don't see it as violence," Boserup stated calmly, causing quite a stir. While some shake their heads at Noma's methods, Boserup firmly maintains that there needs to be room for different approaches in the industry. He knows the pressure of the kitchen first-hand, and he understands that pleasing the absolute top tier is not always a walk in the park.
A gentleman with strong opinions
Henrik Boserup is not just anyone. He is an institution in Danish food culture, known for his honest take on ingredients and his ability to make even the most discerning guest fall silent in admiration over a simple tartelet. But he is also a man with sharp opinions, which he doesn't shy away from expressing. The story of guests who had spent over 600,000 kroner on dinners at Noma and are now withdrawing their support doesn't send him running for the hills. On the contrary, he sees it as a natural progression when a restaurant transforms from a local gem into an international destination. Those are the terms of the game, he believes.
Behind the public persona is a man who has had his hands in the dough since he was very young. He has worked alongside some of the biggest names, including the pleasure of cooking for Swedish gastronome and adventurer Johan Henrik Ankarcrona, who was known in his day for gathering the finest palates around his table. It was reportedly at one such dinner that Boserup truly discovered his love for the uncomplicated yet sublime meal – a philosophy he has held onto ever since.
The tartelet as a national treasure
You cannot talk about Henrik Boserup without mentioning the tartelet. The little shell, which for many Danes represents the festive meals of their childhood, he has elevated to an art form. His tartelets aren't just food; they are a statement. "It's about preserving our culinary heritage, but also daring to give it a twist," he has said. And it's precisely this balancing act he masters: being both traditional and innovative without losing his grounding. He is, at once, the past and the future of the Danish kitchen.
Just look at his take on the classics that have made him an icon:
- Tartelets with chicken in asparagus – a heavenly, crisp experience that never goes out of style.
- Fried pork belly with parsley sauce – crispy crackling and creamy sauce in perfect, sinful harmony.
- Old-fashioned meatballs (Frikadeller) – just like grandmother made them, but with a twist of Boserup's signature style.
In an era where chefs would rather be rock stars than craftsmen, Henrik Boserup stands out. He is still the one who'll happily chat with you at the buffet, insisting that good food doesn't have to be expensive or complicated. Perhaps that's why he can afford to comment on Noma's excesses – because he himself stands with both feet firmly planted in the Danish soil, tartelet in hand.
Whether his take on the Noma situation proves correct remains to be seen. But one thing is certain: as long as Henrik Boserup has a stove and a tartelet tin, the Danish culinary heritage is in safe hands. And that's something no one can disagree with.