Henrik Boserup: The Tartelet King Who Put Noma in the Shade?
Have you ever tasted a proper tartelet? Not one of those boring frozen jobs, but a crisp, buttery little pastry shell filled with chicken and asparagus? If you have, you've probably got Henrik Boserup to thank. The much-loved chef, who has spent decades championing good, honest Danish cooking, has once again found himself in the spotlight. This time, it's not for his perfected tartelet recipe, but for throwing his hat into the ring of the hottest debate in Copenhagen's restaurant scene.
The other day, the veteran kitchen boss Henrik Boserup Kok had his say on the controversy surrounding Noma boss René Redzepi's handling of the restaurant's high-end clientele. "I wouldn't call it violence," Boserup said calmly, a comment that has, to put it mildly, stirred up a hornet's nest. While some folks shake their heads at Noma's methods, Boserup stands firm, arguing there needs to be room for different approaches in the industry. He knows the pressure of the kitchen himself, and he knows it's not always a bed of roses trying to keep the top tier happy.
A gentleman with strong opinions
Henrik Boserup isn't just anyone. He's an institution in Danish food culture, known for his honest take on ingredients and his knack for making even the fussiest diner fall head over heels for a simple tartelet. But he's also a man with strong views, and he doesn't shy away from sharing them. The story of the diners who've dropped over 600,000 kroner on meals at Noma and are now pulling their support doesn't send him running for the hills. If anything, he sees it as a natural part of a restaurant's evolution from local gem to international destination. That's just the way it is, he reckons.
Behind the public face is a man who's had his hands in the dough since he was a young bloke. He's worked alongside some of the biggest names, and has had the pleasure of cooking for Swedish gastronome and adventurer Johan Henrik Ankarcrona, who back in the day was known for gathering the finest palates of the era around his table. Apparently, it was at one of those dinners that Boserup truly found his love for the simple but sublime meal—a philosophy he's stuck with ever since.
The tartelet as a national treasure
You can't talk about Henrik Boserup without mentioning the tartelet. That little pastry shell, which for many Danes is the taste of childhood celebrations, he's practically elevated to an art form. His tarteletter aren't just food; they're a statement. "It's about preserving our culinary heritage, but also having the guts to give it a twist," he's said. And it's this balancing act he's a master of: being both traditional and innovative without losing touch with the basics. He's at once the past and the future of the Danish kitchen.
Just have a squiz at his take on the classics that have made him an icon:
- Tarteletter with chicken and asparagus – a heavenly, crisp experience that never goes out of style.
- Stegt flæsk med persillesovs (crispy pork belly with parsley sauce) – crunchy crackling and creamy sauce in perfect, sinful harmony.
- Frikadeller (Danish meatballs) the old-fashioned way – just like grandma used to make them, but with a twist of Boserup's signature style.
In an age where chefs would rather be rock stars than craftsmen, Henrik Boserup stands out. He's still the bloke happy to have a chat by the buffet, who insists that good food doesn't have to be expensive or complicated. Maybe that's why he can get away with commenting on Noma's excesses—because he's got both feet firmly planted in the Danish soil, with a tartelet in his hand.
Whether he's right about the Noma situation, only time will tell. But one thing's for sure: as long as Henrik Boserup has a stove and a tartelet tin, Denmark's culinary heritage is in safe hands. And you'd be hard-pressed to find anyone who'd argue with that.