Henrik Boserup: The Tartelet King Who Put Noma in the Shade?
Have you ever tasted a proper tartelet? Not one of those sad, frozen ones, but a crisp, buttery little pastry case filled with chicken in asparagus sauce? If you have, you can probably thank Henrik Boserup. The beloved chef, who has championed honest, hearty Danish cooking for decades, has once again been thrust into the spotlight. This time, it's not for his perfected tartelet recipes, but because he's waded into the hottest debate in Copenhagen's restaurant scene.
The other day, the seasoned head chef Henrik Boserup Kok had his say on Noma boss René Redzepi's much-discussed handling of the restaurant's exclusive clientele. "I wouldn't call it violence," Boserup stated calmly, causing quite a stir. While some are quick to criticise Noma's methods, Boserup firmly insists there must be room for different approaches in the industry. He knows the pressure of a professional kitchen firsthand, and he understands that catering to the very top tier isn't always a bed of roses.
A gentleman with convictions
Henrik Boserup isn't just anyone. He's an institution in Danish food culture, known for his honest approach to ingredients and his ability to leave even the fussiest diner utterly captivated by a simple tartelet. But he's also a man with strong opinions, and he doesn't shy away from voicing them. The story of guests who spent over 600,000 kroner on meals at Noma and are now withdrawing their support doesn't send him running for the hills. On the contrary, he sees it as a natural progression when a restaurant evolves from a local gem into an international destination. It's just part and parcel of the game, he believes.
Beneath the public persona is a man who's had his hands in the dough since he was a young lad. He's worked alongside some of the greats, including having the pleasure of cooking for Swedish gastronome and adventurer Johan Henrik Ankarcrona, who was known in his day for gathering the finest palates around his table. It was reportedly at one such dinner that Boserup truly discovered his love for the uncomplicated yet sublime meal – a philosophy he's held onto ever since.
The tartelet as a national treasure
You can't talk about Henrik Boserup without mentioning the tartelet. The little pastry shell, which for many Danes evokes childhood memories of special occasions, he has elevated to an art form. His tarteletter aren't just food; they're a statement. "It's about preserving our food heritage, but also daring to give it a twist," he's said. And it's this very balancing act he masters: being both traditional and innovative without losing his roots. He is, at once, the past and the future of the Danish kitchen.
Just look at the classics that have made him an icon:
- Tarteletter with chicken in asparagus sauce – a heavenly, crisp experience that never goes out of style.
- Fried pork belly with parsley sauce – crisp crackling and creamy sauce in perfect, glorious harmony.
- Traditional Danish meatballs (frikadeller) – just like grandma used to make, but with a twist of Boserup's signature style.
In an era where chefs would rather be rock stars than craftsmen, Henrik Boserup stands apart. He's still the one who's happy to have a chat by the buffet, who insists that good food doesn't have to be expensive or complicated. Maybe that's why he can afford to comment on Noma's excesses – because he himself has both feet planted firmly in Danish soil, with a tartelet in his hand.
Whether his take on the Noma situation proves right, only time will tell. But one thing is certain: as long as Henrik Boserup has a stove and a tartelet tin, the Danish food heritage is in safe hands. And surely, no one can argue with that.