Henrik Boserup: The Tartlet King Who Put Noma in the Shade?
Have you ever tasted a proper tartlet? Not one of those boring frozen jobs, but a crisp, buttery little case filled with chicken and asparagus? Well, if you have, you can probably thank Henrik Boserup. The beloved chef, who has championed good, honest Danish cooking for decades, has found himself back in the spotlight. This time, it's not for his perfected tartlets, but for weighing in on the hottest debate in Copenhagen's restaurant scene.
The other day, the seasoned head chef Henrik Boserup had his say on Noma boss René Redzepi's controversial handling of the restaurant's exclusive guests. "I don't see it as violence," Boserup stated calmly, causing quite a stir in the process. While some are shaking their heads at Noma's methods, Boserup firmly insists there must be room for different approaches in the industry. He knows the pressure of the kitchen himself, and he understands that pleasing the highest of high-end clientele isn't always a bed of roses.
A gentleman with opinions
Henrik Boserup is no ordinary figure. He's an institution in Danish food culture, known for his honest view of ingredients and his ability to make even the fussiest diner marvel at a simple tartlet. But he's also a man with strong opinions, and he doesn't shy away from voicing them. The story of the guests who spent over 600,000 kroner on meals at Noma and are now withdrawing their support doesn't send him running for the hills. On the contrary, he sees it as a natural evolution when a restaurant transforms from a local gem into an international destination. It's just part and parcel of the business, he believes.
Behind the public face is a man who has had his hands in the dough since he was a lad. He's worked alongside some of the biggest names, and has had the pleasure of cooking for Swedish gastronome and adventurer Johan Henrik Ankarcrona, who in his day was known for gathering the finest palates of the era around his table. It was reportedly at such a dinner that Boserup truly found his love for the uncomplicated yet sublime meal—a philosophy he has held onto ever since.
The tartlet as a national treasure
You can't talk about Henrik Boserup without mentioning the tartlet. That little pastry shell, for many Danes the taste of childhood celebrations, he has elevated to an art form. His tartlets aren't just food; they're a statement. "It's about preserving our culinary heritage, but at the same time daring to give it a twist," he has said. And it's precisely this balancing act that he masters: being both traditional and innovative without losing touch with his roots. He is, at once, the past and the future of the Danish kitchen.
Just look at his take on the classics that have made him an icon:
- Tartlets with chicken and asparagus – a heavenly, crisp experience that never goes out of style.
- Fried pork belly with parsley sauce – crisp crackling and creamy sauce in perfect, sinful harmony.
- Old-fashioned meatballs (frikadeller) – just like grandmother made them, but with a twist of Boserup's signature style.
In an age where chefs would rather be rock stars than craftsmen, Henrik Boserup stands out. He's still the one happy to chat by the buffet, who insists that good food doesn't have to be expensive or complicated. Perhaps that's why he can afford to comment on Noma's excesses—because he himself has both feet planted firmly in Danish soil, a tartlet in hand.
Time will tell if his assessment of the Noma situation is correct. But one thing is certain: as long as Henrik Boserup has a stove and a tartlet tin, Denmark's culinary heritage is in safe hands. And that's surely something everyone can agree on.