Henrik Boserup: The Tartelet King Who Made Noma Pale in Comparison?
Have you ever tasted a proper tartelet? Not one of those boring frozen things, but a crispy, buttery little pastry filled with chicken in asparagus sauce? Then you probably have Henrik Boserup to thank. The beloved chef, who for decades has championed good, solid Danish cooking, has once again been thrust into the spotlight. This time, not because of his perfected tarteletter, but because he has weighed in on the hottest debate in Copenhagen's restaurant scene.
The other day, the seasoned chef Henrik Boserup Kok spoke out about Noma boss René Redzepi's controversial handling of the restaurant's exclusive guests. "I don't think it's violence," Boserup said calmly, which has, to say the least, stirred up a hornet's nest. While some shake their heads at Noma's methods, Boserup stands firm that there should be room for different approaches in the industry. He knows the pressure of the kitchen himself, and he knows that satisfying the crème de la crème is not always a bed of roses.
A Gentleman with Opinions
Henrik Boserup is no ordinary person. He is an institution in Danish food culture, known for his honest view of ingredients and his ability to make even the most discerning guest marvel at a simple tartelet. But he is also a man with strong opinions, which he doesn't hide. The story of the guests who had spent over 600,000 kroner on meals at Noma and are now withdrawing their support doesn't make him run screaming. On the contrary, he sees it as a natural development when a restaurant moves from being a local gem to becoming an international destination. Those are the terms, he believes.
Behind the facade, we find a man who has had his hands in the dough since he was very young. He has worked side by side with some of the greats, and has had the pleasure of cooking for Swedish gastronome and adventurer Johan Henrik Ankarcrona, who in his day was known for gathering the finest palates of the time around his table. It was reportedly at such a dinner that Boserup truly found his love for the uncomplicated yet sublime meal. A principle he has held onto ever since.
The Tartelet as a National Treasure
You can't talk about Henrik Boserup without mentioning the tartelet. The little shell, which for many Danes is the feast of childhood, he has almost elevated to an art form. His tarteletter are not just food; they are a statement. "It's about preserving our culinary heritage, but at the same time daring to give it a twist," he has said. And that's precisely the balancing act he masters: being both traditional and innovative without losing touch with the ground. He is at once the past and the future of Danish cuisine.
Just look at his take on the classics that have made him an icon:
- Tarteletter with chicken in asparagus sauce – a heavenly, crispy experience that never goes out of style.
- Fried pork belly with parsley sauce – crispy crackling and creamy sauce in perfect, sinful harmony.
- Old-fashioned meatballs (frikadeller) – like grandma made them, but with a twist of Boserup's signature style.
In an age where chefs would rather be rock stars than craftsmen, Henrik Boserup stands out. He is still the one who is happy to chat at the buffet, and who insists that good food doesn't have to be expensive or difficult. Perhaps that's why he can afford to comment on Noma's excesses – because he himself stands with both feet firmly planted in Danish soil and a tartelet in his hand.
Whether he is right in his assessment of the Noma situation remains to be seen. But one thing is certain: as long as Henrik Boserup has a stove and a tartelet mold, the Danish culinary heritage is in safe hands. And surely no one can disagree with that.