Henrik Boserup: The Tartelet King Who Put Noma in the Shade?
Have you ever tasted a proper tartelet? Not one of those sad, frozen ones, but a crisp, buttery little pastry shell filled with chicken in asparagus? If so, you’ve probably got Henrik Boserup to thank. The beloved chef, who has championed honest, hearty Danish cooking for decades, has once again been thrust into the spotlight. This time, it’s not for his perfected tartelet shells, but for weighing in on the hottest debate in Copenhagen’s restaurant scene.
The other day, the seasoned kitchen veteran Henrik Boserup Kok had his say on Noma boss René Redzepi’s much-debated handling of the restaurant's exclusive clientele. "I don't see it as violence," Boserup stated calmly, a comment that has, to put it mildly, stirred up the pot. While some shake their heads at Noma's methods, Boserup stands firm, arguing there needs to be room for different approaches in the industry. He knows the pressure of the kitchen himself, and he understands that pleasing the absolute top tier isn't always a walk in the park.
A gentleman with strong opinions
Henrik Boserup is no ordinary figure. He’s an institution in Danish food culture, known for his honest view on ingredients and his ability to make even the pickiest eater fall in love with a simple tartelet. But he's also a man with sharp opinions, which he doesn't shy away from sharing. The story of guests who spent over 600,000 kroner on meals at Noma and are now pulling their support doesn't send him running for the hills. On the contrary, he sees it as a natural evolution when a restaurant transforms from a local gem into an international destination. Those are the breaks, he believes.
Behind the public persona is a man who's had his hands in the dough since he was a youngster. He's worked alongside some of the biggest names, and once had the pleasure of cooking for the Swedish gastronomer and adventurer Johan Henrik Ankarcrona, who in his day was known for gathering the finest palates around his table. It was reportedly at such a dinner that Boserup truly discovered his love for the uncomplicated yet sublime meal—a philosophy he's held onto ever since.
The tartelet as a national treasure
You can't talk about Henrik Boserup without mentioning the tartelet. That little shell, which for many Danes evokes childhood celebrations, he has elevated to an art form. His tartelets aren't just food; they're a statement. "It's about preserving our culinary heritage, but also daring to give it a twist," he has said. And it's this balancing act he masters: being both traditional and innovative without losing touch with the basics. He is, at once, the past and the future of the Danish kitchen.
Just look at his take on the classics that have made him an icon:
- Tartelets with chicken in asparagus – a heavenly, crisp experience that never goes out of style.
- Fried pork belly with parsley sauce – crispy crackling and creamy sauce in perfect, glorious harmony.
- Old-fashioned meatballs (frikadeller) – just like grandma used to make, but with a twist of Boserup's signature style.
In an era where chefs would rather be rock stars than craftsmen, Henrik Boserup stands apart. He's still the guy happy to have a chat by the buffet, who insists that good food doesn't have to be expensive or difficult. Maybe that's why he can afford to comment on Noma's excesses – because he himself stands with both feet firmly planted in the good Danish soil, a tartelet in hand.
Whether his take on the Noma situation proves right, only time will tell. But one thing is certain: as long as Henrik Boserup has a stove and a tartelet tin, the legacy of Danish cuisine is in safe hands. And surely, no one can argue with that.