Henrik Boserup: The Tartelet King Who Made Noma Pale in Comparison?
Have you ever tasted a proper tartelet? Not one of those sad, frozen ones, but a crisp, buttery little shell filled with chicken in asparagus sauce? If you have, you probably have Henrik Boserup to thank for it. This beloved chef, who has championed hearty, honest Danish cooking for decades, has once again been thrust into the spotlight. This time, it's not for his perfected tartelet shells, but for weighing in on the hottest debate in Copenhagen's restaurant scene.
The seasoned kitchen veteran Henrik Boserup Kok recently shared his thoughts on Noma boss René Redzepi's much-discussed handling of the restaurant's exclusive guests. "I don't see it as violence," Boserup stated calmly, stirring up a hornet's nest. While some shake their heads at Noma's methods, Boserup firmly maintains that there's room for different approaches in the industry. He knows the pressure of the kitchen himself, and he understands that pleasing the absolute top tier isn't always a walk in the park.
A gentleman with opinions
Henrik Boserup isn't just anyone. He's an institution in Danish food culture, known for his honest take on ingredients and his ability to leave even the fussiest diner utterly captivated by a simple tartelet. But he's also a man with sharp opinions, and he doesn't hide them. The story of guests who spent over S$130,000 on meals at Noma and are now withdrawing their support doesn't send him running for the hills. On the contrary, he sees it as a natural evolution when a restaurant transforms from a local gem into an international destination. It's part and parcel of the game, he believes.
Behind the public figure is a man who has had his hands in the dough since he was a young lad. He has worked alongside some of the biggest names, and once had the pleasure of cooking for Swedish gastronome and adventurer Johan Henrik Ankarcrona, who was known in his day for gathering the finest palates around his table. It was reportedly at such a dinner that Boserup truly found his love for the uncomplicated yet sublime meal – a philosophy he has held onto ever since.
The tartelet as a national treasure
You can't talk about Henrik Boserup without mentioning the tartelet. That little shell, which for many Danes represents the festive meals of their childhood, he has elevated to an art form. His tartelet shells aren't just food; they're a statement. "It's about preserving our culinary heritage, but also daring to give it a twist," he has said. And it's this balancing act he masters: being both traditional and innovative without losing touch with the basics. He is, at once, the past and the future of the Danish kitchen.
Just look at his take on the classics that have made him an icon:
- Tarteletter with chicken in asparagus sauce – a heavenly, crisp experience that never goes out of style.
- Fried pork belly with parsley sauce – crackling-crisp skin and creamy sauce in perfect, sinful harmony.
- Old-fashioned meatballs (frikadeller) – just like grandma made them, but with a twist of Boserup's signature style.
In an age where chefs would rather be rockstars than craftsmen, Henrik Boserup stands out. He's still the guy who's happy to chat by the buffet table, who insists that good food doesn't have to be expensive or complicated. Maybe that's why he can afford to comment on Noma's excesses – because he himself has both feet firmly planted in the Danish soil, with a tartelet shell in hand.
Whether he's right about the Noma situation remains to be seen. But one thing is certain: as long as Henrik Boserup has a stove and a tartelet mould, the Danish culinary heritage is in safe hands. And that's something pretty much everyone can agree on.