Balmaseda gets ready for its big night: tears, emotion, and the heart of a town poured into the Living Passion
If there’s one place where Easter hits you right in the soul, it’s Balmaseda. I’ve spent decades exploring every corner of Bizkaia, and each year as this season approaches, I can feel the shift in the town’s energy. It’s not just the buzz of last-minute preparations; it’s a palpable emotion hanging in the air, like a promise about to be fulfilled. And in 2026, that promise has a name: Aitor Sollano.
I saw it myself during the full rehearsals on Thursday. The man playing Jesus in this year’s Living Passion couldn’t hold back his tears. And mind you, I’m not talking about an actor getting into character—I’m talking about someone who, as he confided privately, finds that this role “gets to you and changes you as a person.” Sollano isn’t just playing a part; he’s living the Passion, and that raw truth is something you feel deep inside. Watching him walk the cobblestone streets, from Plaza de San Severino to Calvary, you realise that for Balmaseda, this isn’t a performance. It’s a collective act of faith.
Over two centuries of history, and a spirit that never grows old
Some call it the oldest Passion play in the Basque Country, and for good reason. But those of us from here, who’ve grown up watching it, know it’s not about the record. It’s about how, year after year, the townsfolk pour their hearts into making the rest of the world understand what it truly means. It goes beyond the Via Crucis. It’s the months of hard work, the dedication of hundreds of participants, the meticulous attention to every last detail of the costumes, the lighting that transforms the old town into a 1st-century Jerusalem.
These days, anyone strolling down Calle Mayor will feel a special vibe. Locals are putting the final touches on their balcony decorations, kids are excitedly asking about the Roman soldiers, and the bars are getting their pintxos ready for the usual influx of visitors. We’re talking about thousands of people. The Sociedad Deportiva Balmaseda Fútbol Club, for instance, always joins in the festive spirit, but during these days, the spotlight shifts to the heart of the town—its streets, its people.
What you need to know to catch every moment
If you’re thinking of coming—and I know many of you do every year—here are a few key things to make sure you get the full experience. This isn’t just a tourist visit; it’s about immersing yourself in the essence of this town.
- The pinnacle moment: The Passion play, culminating in the crucifixion, is the main event. It’s best to arrive early to secure a good spot, especially around San Roque and Calvary.
- More than just a show: Aitor Sollano isn’t alone. Behind him is a cast of over 400 people, all volunteers, whose quiet dedication makes this annual miracle happen.
- Don’t let the weather put you off: I’ve heard people ask about the infamous “Balmaceda” from the weather forecasts, but take it from me—when the spirit here is this strong, not even a drop of rain can dampen the emotion. The Passion goes on, rain or shine.
Last night, as they put the finishing touches on the preparations, I ran into some of the organisers. You could see the fatigue, but also the immense satisfaction. The “Jesus of Balmaseda,” as they affectionately call him, knows he’ll have to hold back his tears again. And those of us who’ll be there know we’ll be doing the same. Because in the end, the Living Passion isn’t just a tradition; it’s the heartbeat of a community. And this year, Aitor Sollano will be the one reminding us of that with every gesture, every step, every tear. Don’t miss it.