Balmaseda prepares for its big night: tears, emotion and the heart of a community giving its all to the Living Passion

If there’s one place where Easter grips you right in the soul, it’s Balmaseda. I’ve spent decades exploring the nooks and crannies of Bizkaia, and every year, as this date approaches, I know the atmosphere in the town shifts. It’s not just the buzz of preparations; it’s a palpable emotion hanging in the air, like a promise waiting to be fulfilled. And in 2026, that promise has a name: Aitor Sollano.

During the dress rehearsals on Thursday, I saw him. This year’s Jesus for the Living Passion couldn’t hold back his tears. And let me be clear, I’m not talking about an actor preparing for a role; I’m talking about someone for whom this character, as he himself confided, “gets under your skin and changes you as a person.” Sollano isn’t playing a part, he’s living the Passion, and that authenticity hits you deep. Watching him walk the cobbled streets, from San Severino Square to Calvary, you understand that for Balmaseda, this isn’t a performance; it’s an act of collective faith.

Over two centuries of history and a feeling that never grows old

Some call it the oldest Passion play in the Basque Country, and rightly so. But those of us from here, who grew up watching it, know the record isn’t what matters. It’s how, year after year, the locals pour their hearts into it so the rest of the world can understand what it truly means. It’s not just about the Stations of the Cross. It’s the months of work, the dedication of hundreds of volunteers, the meticulous attention to detail in the costumes, and the lighting that transforms the old town into a first-century Jerusalem.

These days, anyone strolling down Calle Mayor will find a special atmosphere. Residents are putting the finishing touches on their balcony decorations, children are asking about the Roman soldiers, and the bars are getting ready with pintxos for the influx of visitors who, like every year, will fill the town. We’re talking thousands of people. The Sociedad Deportiva Balmaseda Fútbol Club, for example, always joins in the festivities, but during these days, the spotlight shifts to the heart of the town: its streets, its people.

What you need to know to not miss a thing

If you’re planning to come – and I know many of you do every year – here are a few key tips to make the most of the experience. This isn’t a simple sightseeing trip; it’s about immersing yourself in the very essence of this community.

• The highlight: The Passion play itself, culminating in the crucifixion, is the main event. It’s best to arrive early to secure a good spot, especially in the San Roque and Calvary areas.
• More than just a show: Aitor Sollano isn’t alone. Behind him is a cast of over 400 people, all volunteers, whose quiet dedication makes this annual miracle possible.
• Don’t let the weather put you off: I’ve heard more than a few jokes about the famous “Balmaceda” from the weather forecasts, but I can assure you, when the feeling runs this deep, not even a drop of rain can dampen the emotion. The Passion goes on, rain or shine.

Last night, as they were putting the final preparations in place, I bumped into several members of the organising team. You could see the tiredness, but also the satisfaction. The “Jesus of Balmaseda,” as he’s affectionately known, knows he’ll have to hold back the tears again. And those of us who’ll be there know we’ll be doing the same. Because in the end, the Living Passion isn’t just a tradition; it’s the heartbeat of a community, and this year, Aitor Sollano will be the one to remind us of that with every gesture, every step, every tear. Don’t miss it.