Balmaseda prepares for its night of nights: tears, emotion, and the heart of a town fully behind the Living Passion
If there's one place where Holy Week hits you with an intensity that sinks into your soul, it's Balmaseda. I've spent decades exploring every corner of Bizkaia, and each year as this date approaches, I know the mood in this town shifts. It's not just the bustle of preparations; it's a quiet, pent-up emotion hanging in the air, like a promise about to be fulfilled. And in 2026, that promise has a name: Aitor Sollano.
I saw him during the full dress rehearsal on Thursday. The man playing Jesus in this year's Living Passion couldn't hold back his tears. And don't get me wrong – I'm not talking about an actor gearing up for a role. This is someone for whom this character, as he confided privately, "gets under your skin and changes you as a person." Sollano isn't playing a part; he's living the Passion, and that truth draws you in. When you see him walk those cobblestone streets, from Plaza de San Severino up to Calvary, you understand: for Balmaseda, this isn't a performance. It's a collective act of faith.
Over two centuries of history, and a feeling that never grows old
Some call it the oldest Passion play in the Basque Country, and rightly so. But those of us from here, who've grown up watching it, know the record isn't what matters. It's how every year, the townspeople pour their hearts into making the rest of the world understand what this means. It's not just the Via Crucis. It's months of work, the dedication of hundreds of participants, the meticulous attention to detail on the costumes, the lighting that transforms the old quarter into a first-century Jerusalem.
If you wander down Calle Mayor these days, you'll find a special atmosphere. People are putting the final touches on their balcony decorations, kids are asking about the Roman soldiers, and the bars are gearing up with pintxos for the flood of visitors that, as always, will fill the town. We're talking thousands of people. The Sociedad Deportiva Balmaseda Fútbol Club, for instance, always joins the festivities, but on these days, the spotlight shifts to the heart of the town: its streets, its people.
What you need to know to not miss a thing
If you're thinking of coming – and I know many of you do every year – here are a few key tips to make the experience complete. This isn't just a tourist visit; it's about immersing yourself in the essence of this community.
- The main event: The Passion play, with the crucifixion, is the centrepiece. It's a good idea to arrive early to snag a good spot, especially around San Roque and Calvary.
- More than just a show: Aitor Sollano isn't alone. Behind him is a cast of over 400 people, all volunteers, whose quiet dedication makes this annual miracle possible.
- Don't let the weather put you off: I've heard plenty of people joke about the famous "Balmaceda" they mention in weather forecasts, but take it from me: when the spirit runs this deep, not even a drop of rain can dampen the emotion. The Passion goes on, rain or shine.
Last night, as they were putting the finishing touches on the preparations, I ran into a few members of the organising team. You could see the exhaustion, but also the satisfaction. The "Jesus of Balmaseda," as they affectionately call him, knows he'll have to hold back those tears again. And those of us who'll be there know we'll be doing the same. Because in the end, the Living Passion isn't just a tradition; it's the heartbeat of a town, and this year, Aitor Sollano will be the one to remind us of that, with every gesture, every step, every tear. Don't miss it.