Balmaseda prepares for its biggest night: tears, emotion, and the heart of a community behind the Living Passion
If there's one place where Holy Week hits you with a force that touches your very soul, it's Balmaseda. I've spent decades exploring the corners of Bizkaia, and every year, as this date approaches, I know the atmosphere in this town shifts. It's not just the buzz of preparations; it's a palpable emotion hanging in the air, like a promise about to be fulfilled. And in 2026, that promise has a name: Aitor Sollano.
I saw him during the dress rehearsals on Thursday. This year's Jesus for the Living Passion couldn't hold back the tears. And look, I'm not talking about an actor getting into character; I'm talking about someone for whom this role, as he confided privately, "gets under your skin and changes you as a person." Sollano isn't just playing a part, he's living the Passion, and that raw truth is palpable. When you see him walk the cobbled streets, from Plaza de San Severino to Calvary, you realise that for Balmaseda, this isn't a performance; it's a collective act of faith.
Over two centuries of history and a feeling that never fades
Some call it the oldest Passion play in the Basque Country, and rightly so. But for the locals, those of us who grew up watching it, we know the record isn't what matters. It's about how, every single year, the community pours their heart into it so the rest of the world can understand what it truly means. It's not just the Via Crucis. It's months of work, the dedication of hundreds of cast members, the meticulous attention to detail in the costumes, the lighting that transforms the historic quarter into a first-century Jerusalem.
These days, anyone strolling down Calle Mayor will find a special vibe. Locals are putting the final touches on their balcony decorations, kids are asking about the Roman soldiers, and the bars are prepping pintxos for the influx of visitors who, as always, will fill the town. We're talking thousands of people. The Sociedad Deportiva Balmaseda Fútbol Club, for example, always joins in the festivities, but these days, the spotlight shifts to the heart of the town: its streets and its people.
What you need to know to not miss a thing
If you're thinking of coming – and I know many of you do every year – here are a few key tips to make sure you get the full experience. This isn't just a tourist visit; it's about immersing yourself in the essence of this community.
- The pinnacle moment: The Passion performance, culminating in the crucifixion, is the main event. It's best to arrive early to secure a good spot, especially in the San Roque and Calvary areas.
- More than just a show: Aitor Sollano isn't alone. Behind him is a cast of over 400 volunteers, all of whose quiet dedication makes this annual miracle possible.
- Don't let the weather be an excuse: I've heard more than one person ask about the infamous "Balmaceda" mentioned in the regional weather reports, but I assure you, when the sentiment runs this deep, not even a drop of rain can dampen the emotion. The Passion goes on, rain or shine.
Last night, as final preparations were being made, I ran into several members of the organising team. You could see the tiredness, but also the immense satisfaction. The "Jesus of Balmaseda," as he's affectionately known, knows he'll have to fight back tears again. And those of us who will be there know we'll be doing the same. Because in the end, the Living Passion isn't just a tradition; it's the heartbeat of a community, and this year, Aitor Sollano will be the one to remind us of that with every gesture, every step, every tear. Don't miss it.