Balmaseda prepares for its big night: Tears, emotion, and the heart of a town pouring its soul into the Living Passion
If there’s one place where Holy Week hits you with a force that moves your very soul, it’s Balmaseda. I’ve spent decades exploring every corner of Bizkaia, and every year, as this time approaches, I know the energy in this town shifts. It’s not just the buzz of last-minute preparations; it’s a palpable emotion that hangs in the air, like a promise about to be fulfilled. And in 2026, that promise has a name: Aitor Sollano.
During the full dress rehearsal on Thursday, I saw it firsthand. The man playing Jesus in this year’s Living Passion couldn’t hold back his tears. And mind you, I’m not talking about an actor simply stepping into a role. I’m talking about someone for whom this character, as he confided privately, “gets under your skin and changes you as a person.” Sollano isn’t acting out the Passion; he is living it, and that raw truth seeps into you. Watching him walk the cobblestone streets, from Plaza de San Severino to Calvary, you understand that for Balmaseda, this isn’t a performance—it’s a collective act of faith.
Over two centuries of history and a feeling that never fades
Some call it the oldest Passion play in the Basque Country, and rightly so. But those of us from here, who grew up witnessing it, know that records aren’t what matter. It’s how, year after year, the entire community pours its heart into making the world understand what this truly means. It’s more than just the Stations of the Cross. It’s months of hard work, the dedication of hundreds of performers, the obsessive attention to detail in the costumes, the lighting that transforms the historic quarter into a first-century Jerusalem.
These days, anyone strolling down Calle Mayor will find a special kind of buzz. Locals are putting the final touches on their balcony decorations, children are wide-eyed asking about the Roman soldiers, and the bars are prepping their pintxos for the flood of visitors that, as always, will pack the town. We’re talking thousands of people. Even the Sociedad Deportiva Balmaseda Fútbol Club gets into the festive spirit, but during these days, the spotlight shifts to the very heart of the town—its streets, its people.
What you need to know to not miss a single moment
If you’re thinking of coming—and I know many of you make the trip every year—here are a few key tips to make the experience complete. This isn’t just a tourist visit; it’s about immersing yourself in the very essence of this place.
- The pinnacle: The Passion reenactment, culminating in the crucifixion, is the central event. It’s wise to arrive early to snag a good spot, especially in the areas around San Roque and Calvary.
- More than a spectacle: Aitor Sollano isn’t alone. Behind him is a cast of over 400 volunteers, whose quiet, dedicated work makes this annual miracle possible.
- Don’t let the weather worry you: I’ve heard more than one person joke about the infamous “Balmaceda” from the weather forecasts, but trust me, when the spirit here runs this deep, not even a drop of rain can dampen the emotion. The Passion goes on, rain or shine.
Last night, as they were putting the final touches on everything, I ran into a few members of the organizing team. The fatigue was evident, but so was their sense of pride. The “Jesus of Balmaseda,” as he’s affectionately called, knows he’ll have to fight back tears again. And those of us who will be there, we know we’ll be doing the same. Because in the end, the Living Passion isn’t just a tradition; it’s the heartbeat of a community. And this year, Aitor Sollano is the one who will remind us of that, with every gesture, every step, and every tear. Don’t miss it.