Balmaseda prepares for its great night: tears, emotion and the heart of a town fully immersed in the Living Passion
If there's one place where Holy Week is felt with a power that hits you right in the gut, it's Balmaseda. I've spent decades exploring the corners of Bizkaia, and every year, as this time approaches, I know the atmosphere in this town changes. It's not just the bustle of the preparations; it's a palpable emotion hanging in the air, like a promise about to be fulfilled. And in 2026, that promise has a name: Aitor Sollano.
I saw him on Thursday during the final dress rehearsals. The actor playing Jesus in this year's Living Passion couldn't hold back his tears. And make no mistake, I'm not talking about someone just getting into a role; I'm talking about someone for whom this character, as he privately confessed, "gets under your skin and changes you as a person." Sollano isn't performing a role, he is living the Passion, and that raw truth seeps into you. Watching him walk the cobblestone streets, from Plaza de San Severino to Calvary, you understand that for Balmaseda, this is no mere performance; it's an act of collective faith.
Over two centuries of history and a feeling that never ages
Some call it the oldest Passion play in the Basque Country, and rightly so. But those of us from here, who grew up watching it, know the record isn't what matters. What matters is how, every year, the locals pour their hearts into it so the rest of the world can grasp what it truly means. It's not just about the Via Crucis. It's the months of work, the dedication of hundreds of participants, the meticulous attention to detail in the costumes, the lighting that transforms the historic quarter into a 1st-century Jerusalem.
These days, anyone strolling down Calle Mayor will find a special buzz in the air. Locals are putting the final touches on their balcony decorations, kids are asking about the Roman soldiers, and the bars are preparing their pintxos for the influx of visitors that, as every year, will fill the town. We're talking thousands of people. The Sociedad Deportiva Balmaseda Fútbol Club, for example, always joins the festivities, but these days, the spotlight shifts to the heart of the town: its streets, its people.
What you need to know to catch every moment
If you're thinking of coming – and I know many of you do every year – here are a few key points to make the experience complete. This isn't just a sightseeing trip; it's about immersing yourself in the very essence of this community.
- The pinnacle moment: The Passion play, with the crucifixion, is the central act. It's advisable to arrive early to secure a good spot, especially in the areas around San Roque and Calvary.
- More than a spectacle: Aitor Sollano isn't the only one. Behind him is a cast of over 400 people, all volunteers, whose quiet dedication makes this annual miracle possible.
- The weather is no excuse: I've heard people joke about the famous 'Balmaceda' from weather forecasts, but let me assure you, when the sentiment here runs this deep, not even a drop of rain can dampen the emotion. The Passion goes ahead, rain or shine.
Last night, while the final preparations were being wrapped up, I ran into some members of the organising team. You could see the exhaustion, but also the satisfaction. The "Jesus of Balmaseda," as he's affectionately known, knows he'll have to hold back his tears again. And those of us who'll be there know we'll be doing the same. Because in the end, the Living Passion isn't just a tradition; it's the heartbeat of a town, and this year, Aitor Sollano will be the one reminding us of that with every gesture, every step, every tear. Don't miss it.