Today's protests in Mexico City: Navigating the chaos while discovering baroque art all around you
If there's one thing that defines us Mexico City locals, it's our knack for living with chaos. And this Thursday is no exception: today's protests in Mexico City kicked off early with the CNTE taking centre stage, alongside dozens of rallies that have taken over major thoroughfares. As demonstrators make their way down Paseo de la Reforma, right beside the Angel of Independence, you can tune out the crowd for a moment and look up – there, amid the chants and graffiti, the legacy of New Spanish baroque remains untouched.
Navigating the chaos: where to avoid
Today's mobilisations got underway just after 9am. The Coordinadora Nacional de Trabajadores de la Educación (CNTE) set off from the Monumento a la Revolución heading towards the Secretaría de Gobernación, but as expected, the blockade on Reforma wasn't far behind. Add to that at least a dozen more gatherings scattered across spots like the Zócalo, the Hemiciclo a Juárez, and around the Chamber of Deputies. If you need to head out, better check alternative routes – this is shaping up to be an all-day affair.
- CNTE march: From Monumento a la Revolución to Bucareli.
- Rally at the Zócalo: Farmers' organisations and unions.
- Intermittent blockades on Reforma: Near the Fuente de la Diana Cazadora.
- Encampment outside Secretaría de Gobernación: Expected to last through the afternoon.
Baroque beauty amidst the protests
As the marchers slowly make their way through and the metro fills up, it's worth pausing to take in the buildings around us. Right where hundreds of teachers are gathered today, three centuries ago stonemasons were carving baroque architecture with a detail-obsession you can still see and touch. The Palacio de Bellas Artes, while more modern, draws from that tradition, but walk just a few metres towards Calle de Madero and you'll find gems like the Casa de los Azulejos – a perfect example of the fusion between baroque and Puebla pottery.
Baroque sculpture also peeks out on every corner of the historic centre. The facades of the Metropolitan Cathedral, for instance, are filled with saints, angels and cherubs that seem to shift with the morning light. Indigenous stonemasons left their mark on every fold of the robes, creating an artistic fusion you won't see anywhere else in the world. And when it comes to baroque painting, just cross the Zócalo and step into the Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso – there, the murals from the viceregal era compete in drama with any slogan spray-painted on the walls.
The Angel, watching it all
The monument featured in this article, the Angel of Independence, isn't baroque – it's a 20th-century hero – but from its column it watches how the city transforms. At its base today you'll find banners and loudspeakers, but also families taking photos, street vendors, and if you look closely, tour guides explaining to visitors why this city is an open-air museum. Today's protests are part of our identity, just like the Solomonic columns and gilded altarpieces tucked away in the downtown churches.
So there you have it: if you get caught in traffic or find a street closed off, take a deep breath and look up. Amid the shouting and honking, the baroque is still there, reminding us that Mexico City never stops surprising you.