Today's Protests in Mexico City: Between Traffic Chaos and the Splendour of Baroque Art
If there's one thing that sets us Mexico City locals apart, it's our ability to coexist with chaos. And this Thursday is no exception: today's protests in Mexico City kicked off early with the CNTE taking centre stage, alongside dozens of gatherings that have shut down major thoroughfares. As demonstrators make their way down Paseo de la Reforma, right beside the Angel of Independence, you can tune out the commotion for a moment and look up: there, amidst the chants and graffiti, the legacy of New Spain's Baroque era remains perfectly intact.
Chaos Route: Where to Avoid
The day of mobilizations began just after 9 a.m. The National Coordinating Union of Education Workers (CNTE) marched from the Monument to the Revolution towards the Ministry of the Interior, but as usual, the blockade on Reforma wasn't far behind. Add to that at least twelve more gatherings spread out across key spots like the Zócalo, the Hemiciclo a Juárez, and the areas around the Chamber of Deputies. If you need to head out, better check for alternate routes because this looks like an all-day affair.
- CNTE March: From the Monument to the Revolution to Bucareli.
- Gathering at the Zócalo: Farmworker organizations and unions.
- Intermittent blockade on Reforma: Near the Fuente de la Diana Cazadora.
- Encampment outside the Ministry of the Interior: Expected to last into the afternoon.
Baroque Amidst the Protest
While the contingents crawl along and the metro packs tight, it's worth pausing to take in the buildings around us. Right where hundreds of teachers are gathered today, three centuries ago, stone carvers were shaping Baroque architecture with a detail-oriented obsession you can still reach out and touch. The Palacio de Bellas Artes, though more modern, draws from that tradition, but if you walk a few metres towards Calle de Madero, you'll stumble upon gems like the Casa de los Azulejos, a perfect example of the fusion between Baroque style and Puebla pottery.
Baroque sculpture also peeks out on every corner of the Historic Centre. The facades of the Metropolitan Cathedral, for instance, are filled with saints, angels, and cherubs that seem to shift with the morning light. Indigenous stone carvers left their mark on every fold of the robes, creating an artistic fusion you won't see anywhere else in the world. And when it comes to Baroque painting, just cross the Zócalo and step into the Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso: inside, murals from the viceregal era compete in drama with any slogan spray-painted on the walls.
The Angel, Witness to It All
The monument in the photo above, the Angel of Independence, isn't Baroque—it's a 20th-century icon—but from its column, it watches how the city transforms. At its base today, you'll find signs and loudspeakers, but also families snapping photos, street vendors, and if you look closely, tour guides explaining to visitors why this city is an open-air museum. Today's protests are part of our identity, just like the Solomonic columns and gilded altarpieces hidden inside the downtown churches.
So there you have it: if you get stuck in traffic or find a street closed off, take a deep breath and look up. Amidst the shouting and honking, the Baroque is still there, reminding us that Mexico City never stops surprising you.