Today's protests in Mexico City: Navigating traffic chaos while discovering baroque art hidden in plain sight
If there's one thing that defines us Mexico City locals, it's our knack for rolling with the chaos. And this Thursday's no different: today's protests in Mexico City kicked off bright and early with the CNTE taking centre stage, alongside dozens of other gatherings that have locked down major thoroughfares. As protesters make their way down Paseo de la Reforma, right beside the Angel of Independence, you can actually tune out the commotion for a moment and look up: there, amid the chants and graffiti, the legacy of New Spanish baroque remains perfectly intact.
Chaos route: where to avoid
The day's mobilisations kicked off just after 9am. The National Coordination of Education Workers (CNTE) marched from the Monument to the Revolution towards the Interior Ministry, but as per usual, the blockade along Reforma wasn't far behind. Add to that at least a dozen other gatherings dotted around spots like the Zócalo, the Juárez Hemicycle and the surrounds of the Chamber of Deputies. If you need to head out, best check alternative routes because this one's shaping up to be an all-day affair.
- CNTE march: from Monument to the Revolution to Bucareli.
- Gathering at the Zócalo: farming organisations and unions.
- Intermittent blockades on Reforma: near the Diana the Huntress Fountain.
- Encampment outside the Interior Ministry: expected to last into the afternoon.
Baroque beauty amid the protest
While the contingents crawl along and the metro packs out, it's worth taking a beat to check out the buildings around us. Right where hundreds of teachers are gathered today, three centuries ago stonemasons were carving baroque architecture with an attention to detail you can still reach out and touch. The Palace of Fine Arts, though more modern, draws from that tradition, but wander a few steps towards Madero Street and you'll stumble upon gems like the House of Tiles – a perfect example of blending baroque with Puebla ceramics.
Baroque sculpture also peeks around every corner of the Historic Centre. The facades of the Metropolitan Cathedral, for instance, are teeming with saints, angels and cherubs that seem to dance in the morning light. Indigenous stonemasons left their mark on every fold of those robes, creating an artistic fusion you won't see anywhere else on earth. And when it comes to baroque painting, just cross the Zócalo and step into the Old College of San Ildefonso: there, the colonial-era murals rival any slogan spray-painted on walls for sheer drama.
The Angel, watching it all
The monument featured in our photo, the Angel of Independence, isn't baroque – it's a 20th-century icon – but from its column it watches how this city keeps reinventing itself. At its base today you'll find banners and loudspeakers, but also families snapping photos, street vendors and, if you look closely, tour guides explaining to visitors why this city's an open-air museum. Today's protests are part of who we are, just like the Solomonic columns and gilded altarpieces tucked away in downtown churches.
So there you have it: if you get caught in traffic or find a street closed off, take a deep breath and look up. Above the shouting and the honking, the baroque is still there, reminding us that Mexico City never stops surprising you.