Today's Protests in Mexico City: Navigating Traffic Chaos Amidst Baroque Splendour
If there's one thing that defines the residents of Mexico City, it's our ability to coexist with chaos. And this Thursday is no exception: today's protests in Mexico City kicked off early with the CNTE taking centre stage, alongside dozens of gatherings that have taken over the main thoroughfares. As protesters march down Paseo de la Reforma, right beside the Angel of Independence, one can momentarily tune out the commotion and look up: there, amidst the slogans and graffiti, the legacy of Novohispanic Baroque remains intact.
Chaos Route: Where to Avoid?
The day of mobilisations began just after 9 in the morning. The National Coordinating Committee of Education Workers (CNTE) marched from the Monument to the Revolution towards the Interior Ministry, but as is customary, the blockade on Reforma was quick to follow. Add to that at least twelve more gatherings spread across points like the Zócalo, the Hemiciclo a Juárez, and the vicinity of the Chamber of Deputies. If you need to head out, better check alternative routes because this looks set to last all day.
- CNTE March: From Monument to the Revolution to Bucareli.
- Gathering at the Zócalo: Peasant organisations and unions.
- Intermittent blockade on Reforma: Near the Fuente de la Diana Cazadora.
- Encampment outside the Interior Ministry: Expected to last until the afternoon.
Baroque Amidst the Protest
As the contingents move slowly and the metro gets packed, it's worth pausing and looking at the buildings around us. Right where hundreds of teachers are gathered today, three centuries ago, stonemasons were carving Baroque architecture with an obsession for detail that we can still touch. The Palace of Fine Arts, although more modern, draws from that tradition, but if you walk a few metres towards Madero Street, you'll encounter gems like the Casa de los Azulejos, a perfect example of the fusion between Baroque and Puebla ceramics.
Baroque sculpture also peeks around every corner of the Historic Centre. The facades of the Metropolitan Cathedral, for instance, are populated with saints, angels, and cherubs that seem to move with the morning light. Indigenous stonemasons left their mark on every fold of the robes, achieving an artistic fusion seen nowhere else in the world. And when it comes to Baroque painting, just cross the Zócalo and step into the Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso: there, the murals from the viceregal era rival any slogan painted on the walls in their drama.
The Angel, Witness to It All
The monument illustrating this piece, the Angel of Independence, isn't Baroque — it's a 20th-century icon — but from its column, it watches how the city transforms. At its base today, there are banners and loudspeakers, but also families taking photos, street vendors, and, if you look closely, tour guides explaining to foreigners why this city is an open-air museum. Today's protests are part of our identity, just like the Solomonic columns and golden altarpieces hidden within the downtown churches.
So now you know: if you get caught in traffic or a street is closed off, take a deep breath and look up. Amidst the shouting and honking, the Baroque remains, reminding us that Mexico City never ceases to amaze.